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How do I reattach a shelf to the wall when it ripped out of the wall?



Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Unicorn Meta Zoo #1: Why another podcast?How can I attach a shelf to a tile wall in a repairable manner?What kind of screws/bolts do I need to mount a heavy TV mount?Can I use lag bolts when mounting heavy shelf units through 2 layer drywall?How do I remove molding with out damaging the molding or the wall?How to get broken screw out of wall anchorNeed help mounting a TV to the wallHow to take out a screw on wallHow do I mount this towel rack that was ripped off the wall?Hanging large TV and media cabinet on cement block covered with drywallHow to support this shelf?



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7















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question



















  • 2





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    13 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    13 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    9 hours ago












  • If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    18 mins ago











  • Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    17 mins ago

















7















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question



















  • 2





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    13 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    13 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    9 hours ago












  • If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    18 mins ago











  • Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    17 mins ago













7












7








7


1






I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question
















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole







mounting shelf






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 3 hours ago









Machavity

8,66522043




8,66522043










asked 17 hours ago









Jakob WeisblatJakob Weisblat

1405




1405







  • 2





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    13 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    13 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    9 hours ago












  • If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    18 mins ago











  • Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    17 mins ago












  • 2





    How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    13 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    13 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    9 hours ago












  • If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

    – ShapeOfMatter
    18 mins ago











  • Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    17 mins ago







2




2





How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

– Sean
13 hours ago





How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

– Sean
13 hours ago













I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

– Jakob Weisblat
13 hours ago





I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

– Jakob Weisblat
13 hours ago




3




3





What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

– Stilez
9 hours ago






What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

– Stilez
9 hours ago














If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

– ShapeOfMatter
18 mins ago





If you're re-attaching the shelf in the same place, then in addition to the discussion below, remember that your "pilot hole" is now seriously over-sized for the screws you have (and possibly a little over-sized for the plastic anchor, if that's still relevant, which I agree it probably isn't). Your easiest option now is probably to start with new pilot holes 1-2" above the existing holes. Then your screws can bite properly into the wood of the stud, and the "foot" of the shelf will hide the old hole for you.

– ShapeOfMatter
18 mins ago













Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

– Jakob Weisblat
17 mins ago





Yep, that's what I did. Drilled ~1/8" pilot holes 1-2" above the old ones, and now the "feet" cover the old holes, as you say.

– Jakob Weisblat
17 mins ago










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















14














It was installed incorrectly.



It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



Here's an example from NPA:



enter image description here



You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






share|improve this answer






























    10














    TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



    There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



    Anchors



    Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



    A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



    You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



    Screws Into Studs



    The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



    With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



    • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

    • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





    share|improve this answer




















    • 3





      Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

      – Mark
      16 hours ago











    • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

      – Jakob Weisblat
      13 hours ago











    • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

      – manassehkatz
      13 hours ago











    • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

      – Darrel Hoffman
      13 hours ago







    • 1





      Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

      – Phil Frost
      3 hours ago


















    5














    Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



    Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
    That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



    Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






    share|improve this answer

























    • Whoa, these things are cool!

      – Jakob Weisblat
      13 hours ago






    • 3





      Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

      – Martin Bonner
      5 hours ago











    • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

      – Owain
      4 hours ago


















    -1














    There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.



    If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.



    Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.






    share|improve this answer

























    • This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?

      – UnhandledExcepSean
      1 hour ago











    • It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!

      – Laurence Payne
      1 hour ago











    • A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.

      – manassehkatz
      1 hour ago











    Your Answer








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    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes








    4 Answers
    4






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    14














    It was installed incorrectly.



    It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



    Here's an example from NPA:



    enter image description here



    You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



    When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






    share|improve this answer



























      14














      It was installed incorrectly.



      It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



      Here's an example from NPA:



      enter image description here



      You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



      When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






      share|improve this answer

























        14












        14








        14







        It was installed incorrectly.



        It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



        Here's an example from NPA:



        enter image description here



        You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



        When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






        share|improve this answer













        It was installed incorrectly.



        It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



        Here's an example from NPA:



        enter image description here



        You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



        When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 4 hours ago









        Phil FrostPhil Frost

        570311




        570311























            10














            TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



            There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



            Anchors



            Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



            A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



            You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



            Screws Into Studs



            The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



            With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



            • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

            • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





            share|improve this answer




















            • 3





              Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

              – Mark
              16 hours ago











            • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago











            • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

              – manassehkatz
              13 hours ago











            • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

              – Darrel Hoffman
              13 hours ago







            • 1





              Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

              – Phil Frost
              3 hours ago















            10














            TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



            There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



            Anchors



            Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



            A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



            You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



            Screws Into Studs



            The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



            With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



            • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

            • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





            share|improve this answer




















            • 3





              Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

              – Mark
              16 hours ago











            • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago











            • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

              – manassehkatz
              13 hours ago











            • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

              – Darrel Hoffman
              13 hours ago







            • 1





              Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

              – Phil Frost
              3 hours ago













            10












            10








            10







            TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



            There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



            Anchors



            Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



            A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



            You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



            Screws Into Studs



            The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



            With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



            • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

            • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





            share|improve this answer















            TL;DR If you mount the shelf supports directly to studs, do that. Just make sure to use long screws - at least 1" into the studs.



            There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



            Anchors



            Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



            A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



            You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



            Screws Into Studs



            The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



            With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



            • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

            • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.






            share|improve this answer














            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer








            edited 1 hour ago

























            answered 17 hours ago









            manassehkatzmanassehkatz

            11.3k1542




            11.3k1542







            • 3





              Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

              – Mark
              16 hours ago











            • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago











            • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

              – manassehkatz
              13 hours ago











            • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

              – Darrel Hoffman
              13 hours ago







            • 1





              Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

              – Phil Frost
              3 hours ago












            • 3





              Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

              – Mark
              16 hours ago











            • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago











            • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

              – manassehkatz
              13 hours ago











            • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

              – Darrel Hoffman
              13 hours ago







            • 1





              Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

              – Phil Frost
              3 hours ago







            3




            3





            Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

            – Mark
            16 hours ago





            Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

            – Mark
            16 hours ago













            I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

            – Jakob Weisblat
            13 hours ago





            I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

            – Jakob Weisblat
            13 hours ago













            I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

            – manassehkatz
            13 hours ago





            I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

            – manassehkatz
            13 hours ago













            Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

            – Darrel Hoffman
            13 hours ago






            Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

            – Darrel Hoffman
            13 hours ago





            1




            1





            Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

            – Phil Frost
            3 hours ago





            Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

            – Phil Frost
            3 hours ago











            5














            Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



            Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
            That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



            Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






            share|improve this answer

























            • Whoa, these things are cool!

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago






            • 3





              Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

              – Martin Bonner
              5 hours ago











            • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

              – Owain
              4 hours ago















            5














            Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



            Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
            That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



            Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






            share|improve this answer

























            • Whoa, these things are cool!

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago






            • 3





              Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

              – Martin Bonner
              5 hours ago











            • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

              – Owain
              4 hours ago













            5












            5








            5







            Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



            Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
            That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



            Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






            share|improve this answer















            Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



            Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
            That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



            Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047







            share|improve this answer














            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer








            edited 13 hours ago

























            answered 14 hours ago









            DaveMDaveM

            1,004415




            1,004415












            • Whoa, these things are cool!

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago






            • 3





              Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

              – Martin Bonner
              5 hours ago











            • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

              – Owain
              4 hours ago

















            • Whoa, these things are cool!

              – Jakob Weisblat
              13 hours ago






            • 3





              Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

              – Martin Bonner
              5 hours ago











            • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

              – Owain
              4 hours ago
















            Whoa, these things are cool!

            – Jakob Weisblat
            13 hours ago





            Whoa, these things are cool!

            – Jakob Weisblat
            13 hours ago




            3




            3





            Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

            – Martin Bonner
            5 hours ago





            Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

            – Martin Bonner
            5 hours ago













            This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

            – Owain
            4 hours ago





            This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

            – Owain
            4 hours ago











            -1














            There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.



            If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.



            Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.






            share|improve this answer

























            • This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?

              – UnhandledExcepSean
              1 hour ago











            • It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!

              – Laurence Payne
              1 hour ago











            • A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.

              – manassehkatz
              1 hour ago















            -1














            There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.



            If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.



            Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.






            share|improve this answer

























            • This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?

              – UnhandledExcepSean
              1 hour ago











            • It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!

              – Laurence Payne
              1 hour ago











            • A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.

              – manassehkatz
              1 hour ago













            -1












            -1








            -1







            There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.



            If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.



            Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.






            share|improve this answer















            There have been some long answers to this question. It only needs a short one, and here it is.



            If there's a wooden stud, screw directly into it. Perhaps you need a longer screw.



            Explanation: er... well, it's better to screw into a wooden stud, if available, than into plasterboard. Because the wood is solid, but plasterboard isn't.







            share|improve this answer














            share|improve this answer



            share|improve this answer








            edited 25 mins ago

























            answered 2 hours ago









            Laurence PayneLaurence Payne

            24514




            24514












            • This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?

              – UnhandledExcepSean
              1 hour ago











            • It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!

              – Laurence Payne
              1 hour ago











            • A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.

              – manassehkatz
              1 hour ago

















            • This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?

              – UnhandledExcepSean
              1 hour ago











            • It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!

              – Laurence Payne
              1 hour ago











            • A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.

              – manassehkatz
              1 hour ago
















            This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?

            – UnhandledExcepSean
            1 hour ago





            This is not really an improvement on the top two answers that already explain to use studs where possible. Can you please expand or delete this answer?

            – UnhandledExcepSean
            1 hour ago













            It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!

            – Laurence Payne
            1 hour ago





            It's a great improvement, because it directly, concisely and completely answers the question!

            – Laurence Payne
            1 hour ago













            A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.

            – manassehkatz
            1 hour ago





            A good answer includes explanation. This can be a TL;DR at the top of an answer, but it should not be an answer by itself. I'll add it to my answer - thank you for the idea.

            – manassehkatz
            1 hour ago

















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