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How to laser-level close to a surface
how do I level PAINTED concrete floor?14ft Ceiling beam sagging 5/8" - what to do?Laying Vinyl Flooring Over Uneven Poured ConcreteCan I use self leveling compound to level old thin set over plywood subfloor?Basement floor leveling guidanceBest way to cover basement tiles containing asbestosHow to level uneven screed?how to re-level a floorHow to shave down or flatten - surface concrete of garage - rain water leaking in under doorBest method to level 1x3 strapping to ceiling joists on a slope?
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Many self-leveling lasers, including my Bosch GCL 2-160, have a limitation when used to level a ceiling or a floor: the horizontal laser beam often cannot get within several inches of the ceiling or floor due to where the laser emerges from the device.
This really slows things down for me when trying to grind down a high spot in a concrete floor, or trying to shim the ceiling strapping. My workaround typically involves getting the laser as close as possible to the surface I'm trying to level, and then using a tape measure to sample the distance from the laser to the surface at a bazillion different locations.
Are there any devices or techniques to make this less painful?
ceiling floor tools self-leveling-concrete leveling
add a comment |
Many self-leveling lasers, including my Bosch GCL 2-160, have a limitation when used to level a ceiling or a floor: the horizontal laser beam often cannot get within several inches of the ceiling or floor due to where the laser emerges from the device.
This really slows things down for me when trying to grind down a high spot in a concrete floor, or trying to shim the ceiling strapping. My workaround typically involves getting the laser as close as possible to the surface I'm trying to level, and then using a tape measure to sample the distance from the laser to the surface at a bazillion different locations.
Are there any devices or techniques to make this less painful?
ceiling floor tools self-leveling-concrete leveling
add a comment |
Many self-leveling lasers, including my Bosch GCL 2-160, have a limitation when used to level a ceiling or a floor: the horizontal laser beam often cannot get within several inches of the ceiling or floor due to where the laser emerges from the device.
This really slows things down for me when trying to grind down a high spot in a concrete floor, or trying to shim the ceiling strapping. My workaround typically involves getting the laser as close as possible to the surface I'm trying to level, and then using a tape measure to sample the distance from the laser to the surface at a bazillion different locations.
Are there any devices or techniques to make this less painful?
ceiling floor tools self-leveling-concrete leveling
Many self-leveling lasers, including my Bosch GCL 2-160, have a limitation when used to level a ceiling or a floor: the horizontal laser beam often cannot get within several inches of the ceiling or floor due to where the laser emerges from the device.
This really slows things down for me when trying to grind down a high spot in a concrete floor, or trying to shim the ceiling strapping. My workaround typically involves getting the laser as close as possible to the surface I'm trying to level, and then using a tape measure to sample the distance from the laser to the surface at a bazillion different locations.
Are there any devices or techniques to make this less painful?
ceiling floor tools self-leveling-concrete leveling
ceiling floor tools self-leveling-concrete leveling
edited 4 hours ago
Christian Convey
asked 4 hours ago
Christian ConveyChristian Convey
1555
1555
add a comment |
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
A good ol' scrap block of two-by does nicely. Just set your laser 1-1/2" above your slab height and kick the block around as you work.
This doesn't work for ceilings, of course, but hopefully you have fewer points to measure in that case. You'd have to use something with a suction cup or magnet otherwise.
Good idea! I can see how that would work for locating deviations from an already established reference depth/height. (Although there might be a speed-vs-sensitivity tradeoff because a longer 2x4 would cover more area but might not detect smaller dips.)
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
add a comment |
That's actually the way one normally does such things, and has been since before there were lasers, other than one normally uses a rod rather than a tape for more consistent results. You establish a reference plane (Generally not going to any great lengths to try and get it super-close to the surface you are working), measure in a grid, and mark high spots for grinding (and/or low spots for filling.)
During the work you may use a marked stick rather than a graduated rod, where the stick is marked for the distance from the reference plane you are trying to achieve, so no math is needed, just a check against the stick to see if you are at the mark yet.
For typical floor or ground work, I generally keep the reference plane up around 30 inches, so I don't have to crouch way down to check, I can just bend over a bit and clearly see the mark. Putting it inches off the floor would be painfully annoying to work with, IMHO.
Thanks. It just seems like there must be a better way, given that we have laser emitters to establish a reference plane, fairly precise laser range finders, fairly precise self-leveling gimbals (such as inside the self-leveling lasers), and laser detectors. I guess Bosch tries to address this niche with their GSL 2, but I was hoping for something cheaper.
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
To answer my own comment, I discovered a tool that's something like what I had in mind: the Spectra Precision HL700. It measures the vertical distance between the horizontal reference plane (defined by a laser emitter) and the floor/ground. If only it had the ability to know its own horizontal location was for each depth reading, it could be used to generate a point cloud, and from that I could get a surface mesh.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
on ceiling drop lazes lower use block or tape i have a magnet that hangs down get bench mark sticks on so can use both hands.floor set up get stick shoot grade to hard if down low
way we did it works
New contributor
2
Thanks for the comment! If you can reword it a bit it might be easier to follow.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Use a 2x2 of any suitable height. Pre-drill a hole in it (so it doesn't split), then screw in a lag screw about half its thread length. The lag screw goes down, to touch the surface being measured.
Then mark a line on the 2x2 at the appropriate height so the laser hits it right on the mark. If you find your mark is not quite in the right place, turn the lag screw in or out until it is.
If the laser is near the floor, you can also use it as a pass/fail, because either the laser will hit the bottom of the 2x2 (high enough), or it will not (too low).
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
A good ol' scrap block of two-by does nicely. Just set your laser 1-1/2" above your slab height and kick the block around as you work.
This doesn't work for ceilings, of course, but hopefully you have fewer points to measure in that case. You'd have to use something with a suction cup or magnet otherwise.
Good idea! I can see how that would work for locating deviations from an already established reference depth/height. (Although there might be a speed-vs-sensitivity tradeoff because a longer 2x4 would cover more area but might not detect smaller dips.)
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
add a comment |
A good ol' scrap block of two-by does nicely. Just set your laser 1-1/2" above your slab height and kick the block around as you work.
This doesn't work for ceilings, of course, but hopefully you have fewer points to measure in that case. You'd have to use something with a suction cup or magnet otherwise.
Good idea! I can see how that would work for locating deviations from an already established reference depth/height. (Although there might be a speed-vs-sensitivity tradeoff because a longer 2x4 would cover more area but might not detect smaller dips.)
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
add a comment |
A good ol' scrap block of two-by does nicely. Just set your laser 1-1/2" above your slab height and kick the block around as you work.
This doesn't work for ceilings, of course, but hopefully you have fewer points to measure in that case. You'd have to use something with a suction cup or magnet otherwise.
A good ol' scrap block of two-by does nicely. Just set your laser 1-1/2" above your slab height and kick the block around as you work.
This doesn't work for ceilings, of course, but hopefully you have fewer points to measure in that case. You'd have to use something with a suction cup or magnet otherwise.
answered 4 hours ago
isherwoodisherwood
52.7k462135
52.7k462135
Good idea! I can see how that would work for locating deviations from an already established reference depth/height. (Although there might be a speed-vs-sensitivity tradeoff because a longer 2x4 would cover more area but might not detect smaller dips.)
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
add a comment |
Good idea! I can see how that would work for locating deviations from an already established reference depth/height. (Although there might be a speed-vs-sensitivity tradeoff because a longer 2x4 would cover more area but might not detect smaller dips.)
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
Good idea! I can see how that would work for locating deviations from an already established reference depth/height. (Although there might be a speed-vs-sensitivity tradeoff because a longer 2x4 would cover more area but might not detect smaller dips.)
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
Good idea! I can see how that would work for locating deviations from an already established reference depth/height. (Although there might be a speed-vs-sensitivity tradeoff because a longer 2x4 would cover more area but might not detect smaller dips.)
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
add a comment |
That's actually the way one normally does such things, and has been since before there were lasers, other than one normally uses a rod rather than a tape for more consistent results. You establish a reference plane (Generally not going to any great lengths to try and get it super-close to the surface you are working), measure in a grid, and mark high spots for grinding (and/or low spots for filling.)
During the work you may use a marked stick rather than a graduated rod, where the stick is marked for the distance from the reference plane you are trying to achieve, so no math is needed, just a check against the stick to see if you are at the mark yet.
For typical floor or ground work, I generally keep the reference plane up around 30 inches, so I don't have to crouch way down to check, I can just bend over a bit and clearly see the mark. Putting it inches off the floor would be painfully annoying to work with, IMHO.
Thanks. It just seems like there must be a better way, given that we have laser emitters to establish a reference plane, fairly precise laser range finders, fairly precise self-leveling gimbals (such as inside the self-leveling lasers), and laser detectors. I guess Bosch tries to address this niche with their GSL 2, but I was hoping for something cheaper.
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
To answer my own comment, I discovered a tool that's something like what I had in mind: the Spectra Precision HL700. It measures the vertical distance between the horizontal reference plane (defined by a laser emitter) and the floor/ground. If only it had the ability to know its own horizontal location was for each depth reading, it could be used to generate a point cloud, and from that I could get a surface mesh.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
That's actually the way one normally does such things, and has been since before there were lasers, other than one normally uses a rod rather than a tape for more consistent results. You establish a reference plane (Generally not going to any great lengths to try and get it super-close to the surface you are working), measure in a grid, and mark high spots for grinding (and/or low spots for filling.)
During the work you may use a marked stick rather than a graduated rod, where the stick is marked for the distance from the reference plane you are trying to achieve, so no math is needed, just a check against the stick to see if you are at the mark yet.
For typical floor or ground work, I generally keep the reference plane up around 30 inches, so I don't have to crouch way down to check, I can just bend over a bit and clearly see the mark. Putting it inches off the floor would be painfully annoying to work with, IMHO.
Thanks. It just seems like there must be a better way, given that we have laser emitters to establish a reference plane, fairly precise laser range finders, fairly precise self-leveling gimbals (such as inside the self-leveling lasers), and laser detectors. I guess Bosch tries to address this niche with their GSL 2, but I was hoping for something cheaper.
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
To answer my own comment, I discovered a tool that's something like what I had in mind: the Spectra Precision HL700. It measures the vertical distance between the horizontal reference plane (defined by a laser emitter) and the floor/ground. If only it had the ability to know its own horizontal location was for each depth reading, it could be used to generate a point cloud, and from that I could get a surface mesh.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
That's actually the way one normally does such things, and has been since before there were lasers, other than one normally uses a rod rather than a tape for more consistent results. You establish a reference plane (Generally not going to any great lengths to try and get it super-close to the surface you are working), measure in a grid, and mark high spots for grinding (and/or low spots for filling.)
During the work you may use a marked stick rather than a graduated rod, where the stick is marked for the distance from the reference plane you are trying to achieve, so no math is needed, just a check against the stick to see if you are at the mark yet.
For typical floor or ground work, I generally keep the reference plane up around 30 inches, so I don't have to crouch way down to check, I can just bend over a bit and clearly see the mark. Putting it inches off the floor would be painfully annoying to work with, IMHO.
That's actually the way one normally does such things, and has been since before there were lasers, other than one normally uses a rod rather than a tape for more consistent results. You establish a reference plane (Generally not going to any great lengths to try and get it super-close to the surface you are working), measure in a grid, and mark high spots for grinding (and/or low spots for filling.)
During the work you may use a marked stick rather than a graduated rod, where the stick is marked for the distance from the reference plane you are trying to achieve, so no math is needed, just a check against the stick to see if you are at the mark yet.
For typical floor or ground work, I generally keep the reference plane up around 30 inches, so I don't have to crouch way down to check, I can just bend over a bit and clearly see the mark. Putting it inches off the floor would be painfully annoying to work with, IMHO.
answered 4 hours ago
EcnerwalEcnerwal
58.2k24398
58.2k24398
Thanks. It just seems like there must be a better way, given that we have laser emitters to establish a reference plane, fairly precise laser range finders, fairly precise self-leveling gimbals (such as inside the self-leveling lasers), and laser detectors. I guess Bosch tries to address this niche with their GSL 2, but I was hoping for something cheaper.
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
To answer my own comment, I discovered a tool that's something like what I had in mind: the Spectra Precision HL700. It measures the vertical distance between the horizontal reference plane (defined by a laser emitter) and the floor/ground. If only it had the ability to know its own horizontal location was for each depth reading, it could be used to generate a point cloud, and from that I could get a surface mesh.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Thanks. It just seems like there must be a better way, given that we have laser emitters to establish a reference plane, fairly precise laser range finders, fairly precise self-leveling gimbals (such as inside the self-leveling lasers), and laser detectors. I guess Bosch tries to address this niche with their GSL 2, but I was hoping for something cheaper.
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
To answer my own comment, I discovered a tool that's something like what I had in mind: the Spectra Precision HL700. It measures the vertical distance between the horizontal reference plane (defined by a laser emitter) and the floor/ground. If only it had the ability to know its own horizontal location was for each depth reading, it could be used to generate a point cloud, and from that I could get a surface mesh.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
Thanks. It just seems like there must be a better way, given that we have laser emitters to establish a reference plane, fairly precise laser range finders, fairly precise self-leveling gimbals (such as inside the self-leveling lasers), and laser detectors. I guess Bosch tries to address this niche with their GSL 2, but I was hoping for something cheaper.
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
Thanks. It just seems like there must be a better way, given that we have laser emitters to establish a reference plane, fairly precise laser range finders, fairly precise self-leveling gimbals (such as inside the self-leveling lasers), and laser detectors. I guess Bosch tries to address this niche with their GSL 2, but I was hoping for something cheaper.
– Christian Convey
4 hours ago
To answer my own comment, I discovered a tool that's something like what I had in mind: the Spectra Precision HL700. It measures the vertical distance between the horizontal reference plane (defined by a laser emitter) and the floor/ground. If only it had the ability to know its own horizontal location was for each depth reading, it could be used to generate a point cloud, and from that I could get a surface mesh.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
To answer my own comment, I discovered a tool that's something like what I had in mind: the Spectra Precision HL700. It measures the vertical distance between the horizontal reference plane (defined by a laser emitter) and the floor/ground. If only it had the ability to know its own horizontal location was for each depth reading, it could be used to generate a point cloud, and from that I could get a surface mesh.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
on ceiling drop lazes lower use block or tape i have a magnet that hangs down get bench mark sticks on so can use both hands.floor set up get stick shoot grade to hard if down low
way we did it works
New contributor
2
Thanks for the comment! If you can reword it a bit it might be easier to follow.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
on ceiling drop lazes lower use block or tape i have a magnet that hangs down get bench mark sticks on so can use both hands.floor set up get stick shoot grade to hard if down low
way we did it works
New contributor
2
Thanks for the comment! If you can reword it a bit it might be easier to follow.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
on ceiling drop lazes lower use block or tape i have a magnet that hangs down get bench mark sticks on so can use both hands.floor set up get stick shoot grade to hard if down low
way we did it works
New contributor
on ceiling drop lazes lower use block or tape i have a magnet that hangs down get bench mark sticks on so can use both hands.floor set up get stick shoot grade to hard if down low
way we did it works
New contributor
New contributor
answered 3 hours ago
Robert MoodyRobert Moody
12
12
New contributor
New contributor
2
Thanks for the comment! If you can reword it a bit it might be easier to follow.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
2
Thanks for the comment! If you can reword it a bit it might be easier to follow.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
2
2
Thanks for the comment! If you can reword it a bit it might be easier to follow.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
Thanks for the comment! If you can reword it a bit it might be easier to follow.
– Christian Convey
3 hours ago
add a comment |
Use a 2x2 of any suitable height. Pre-drill a hole in it (so it doesn't split), then screw in a lag screw about half its thread length. The lag screw goes down, to touch the surface being measured.
Then mark a line on the 2x2 at the appropriate height so the laser hits it right on the mark. If you find your mark is not quite in the right place, turn the lag screw in or out until it is.
If the laser is near the floor, you can also use it as a pass/fail, because either the laser will hit the bottom of the 2x2 (high enough), or it will not (too low).
add a comment |
Use a 2x2 of any suitable height. Pre-drill a hole in it (so it doesn't split), then screw in a lag screw about half its thread length. The lag screw goes down, to touch the surface being measured.
Then mark a line on the 2x2 at the appropriate height so the laser hits it right on the mark. If you find your mark is not quite in the right place, turn the lag screw in or out until it is.
If the laser is near the floor, you can also use it as a pass/fail, because either the laser will hit the bottom of the 2x2 (high enough), or it will not (too low).
add a comment |
Use a 2x2 of any suitable height. Pre-drill a hole in it (so it doesn't split), then screw in a lag screw about half its thread length. The lag screw goes down, to touch the surface being measured.
Then mark a line on the 2x2 at the appropriate height so the laser hits it right on the mark. If you find your mark is not quite in the right place, turn the lag screw in or out until it is.
If the laser is near the floor, you can also use it as a pass/fail, because either the laser will hit the bottom of the 2x2 (high enough), or it will not (too low).
Use a 2x2 of any suitable height. Pre-drill a hole in it (so it doesn't split), then screw in a lag screw about half its thread length. The lag screw goes down, to touch the surface being measured.
Then mark a line on the 2x2 at the appropriate height so the laser hits it right on the mark. If you find your mark is not quite in the right place, turn the lag screw in or out until it is.
If the laser is near the floor, you can also use it as a pass/fail, because either the laser will hit the bottom of the 2x2 (high enough), or it will not (too low).
answered 3 mins ago
HarperHarper
79.4k552159
79.4k552159
add a comment |
add a comment |
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