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Best material to absorb as much light as possible


How much film do I need (in feet/meters)?Synonyms for light tableIs it possible to manually controll the flash while using the BULB manual exposure setting on a Canon XSi?Is it possible to make a single still photo from a video?Is it possible to get a double exposure with a digital camera?Is it possible to take HDR-photos straight out of camera?How do I create a nighttime B&W image but have the subject illuminated by light in full color?What is the best way to store negatives from the 1940s and '50s?Is it possible to set two exposure values and set them on a loop?Possible cause of light leak in film SLR






.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty margin-bottom:0;








3















I take pictures on film and with direct lighting in front of black backgrounds or sometimes in direct sunlight.
In both of these situations I want to sometimes cover parts of the subject in complete black for artistic purposes. Just taking some black cloth doesn't do the trick it still reflects too much light and therefor is visible as gray material on the photos.
Any tips on what material to choose to increase the light swallowing effect?










share|improve this question
























  • I have an Instagram handle @dr.lull The cover up is needed for multi exposure to not overlap in some areas

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago











  • To confirm - your goal is to take an exposure coving some part of the frame so that it comes out essentially blank on the film, so that you can do a double exposure thus getting detail to that area in particular?

    – Hueco
    4 hours ago











  • Yeah I think that's describing it pretty well

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    Duvetyne? Black velour flocking paper?

    – xiota
    4 hours ago







  • 1





    Simple black velvet fabric is really good, and cheap. If you want paint, Krylon flat black is about as good as you can get for something cheap and easy to obtain.

    – Eric Shain
    2 hours ago


















3















I take pictures on film and with direct lighting in front of black backgrounds or sometimes in direct sunlight.
In both of these situations I want to sometimes cover parts of the subject in complete black for artistic purposes. Just taking some black cloth doesn't do the trick it still reflects too much light and therefor is visible as gray material on the photos.
Any tips on what material to choose to increase the light swallowing effect?










share|improve this question
























  • I have an Instagram handle @dr.lull The cover up is needed for multi exposure to not overlap in some areas

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago











  • To confirm - your goal is to take an exposure coving some part of the frame so that it comes out essentially blank on the film, so that you can do a double exposure thus getting detail to that area in particular?

    – Hueco
    4 hours ago











  • Yeah I think that's describing it pretty well

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    Duvetyne? Black velour flocking paper?

    – xiota
    4 hours ago







  • 1





    Simple black velvet fabric is really good, and cheap. If you want paint, Krylon flat black is about as good as you can get for something cheap and easy to obtain.

    – Eric Shain
    2 hours ago














3












3








3








I take pictures on film and with direct lighting in front of black backgrounds or sometimes in direct sunlight.
In both of these situations I want to sometimes cover parts of the subject in complete black for artistic purposes. Just taking some black cloth doesn't do the trick it still reflects too much light and therefor is visible as gray material on the photos.
Any tips on what material to choose to increase the light swallowing effect?










share|improve this question
















I take pictures on film and with direct lighting in front of black backgrounds or sometimes in direct sunlight.
In both of these situations I want to sometimes cover parts of the subject in complete black for artistic purposes. Just taking some black cloth doesn't do the trick it still reflects too much light and therefor is visible as gray material on the photos.
Any tips on what material to choose to increase the light swallowing effect?







film multiple-exposure double-exposure






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 4 hours ago







Jeffrey

















asked 5 hours ago









JeffreyJeffrey

474




474












  • I have an Instagram handle @dr.lull The cover up is needed for multi exposure to not overlap in some areas

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago











  • To confirm - your goal is to take an exposure coving some part of the frame so that it comes out essentially blank on the film, so that you can do a double exposure thus getting detail to that area in particular?

    – Hueco
    4 hours ago











  • Yeah I think that's describing it pretty well

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    Duvetyne? Black velour flocking paper?

    – xiota
    4 hours ago







  • 1





    Simple black velvet fabric is really good, and cheap. If you want paint, Krylon flat black is about as good as you can get for something cheap and easy to obtain.

    – Eric Shain
    2 hours ago


















  • I have an Instagram handle @dr.lull The cover up is needed for multi exposure to not overlap in some areas

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago











  • To confirm - your goal is to take an exposure coving some part of the frame so that it comes out essentially blank on the film, so that you can do a double exposure thus getting detail to that area in particular?

    – Hueco
    4 hours ago











  • Yeah I think that's describing it pretty well

    – Jeffrey
    4 hours ago






  • 1





    Duvetyne? Black velour flocking paper?

    – xiota
    4 hours ago







  • 1





    Simple black velvet fabric is really good, and cheap. If you want paint, Krylon flat black is about as good as you can get for something cheap and easy to obtain.

    – Eric Shain
    2 hours ago

















I have an Instagram handle @dr.lull The cover up is needed for multi exposure to not overlap in some areas

– Jeffrey
4 hours ago





I have an Instagram handle @dr.lull The cover up is needed for multi exposure to not overlap in some areas

– Jeffrey
4 hours ago













To confirm - your goal is to take an exposure coving some part of the frame so that it comes out essentially blank on the film, so that you can do a double exposure thus getting detail to that area in particular?

– Hueco
4 hours ago





To confirm - your goal is to take an exposure coving some part of the frame so that it comes out essentially blank on the film, so that you can do a double exposure thus getting detail to that area in particular?

– Hueco
4 hours ago













Yeah I think that's describing it pretty well

– Jeffrey
4 hours ago





Yeah I think that's describing it pretty well

– Jeffrey
4 hours ago




1




1





Duvetyne? Black velour flocking paper?

– xiota
4 hours ago






Duvetyne? Black velour flocking paper?

– xiota
4 hours ago





1




1





Simple black velvet fabric is really good, and cheap. If you want paint, Krylon flat black is about as good as you can get for something cheap and easy to obtain.

– Eric Shain
2 hours ago






Simple black velvet fabric is really good, and cheap. If you want paint, Krylon flat black is about as good as you can get for something cheap and easy to obtain.

– Eric Shain
2 hours ago











2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















2














Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with.



Shiny synthetic fibres [and even some natural wools] might look black, but are at risk of casting bright specular reflections toward the camera which increases the apparent brightness.



You also want your masks to be as smooth and even in the scene as you can get them: Folds and wrinkles will be more likely to show in the second exposure than a smooth texture.



From there, the next step would be to adjust how you're metering: Use a spot meter off the black-masking you're putting in the image, and use zone-system like metering methods to drop it down to where you want it.



This process may also involve getting creative with supplemental lighting work to achieve the best results:



  • Cast shadows on what you want dropped to black

  • Use flash or reflectors to put more light where you need it.

The method may be further pushed by using a film with higher contrast.




However, depending on exactly what you are aiming for from an end result, a more practical option may be to mask and double expose in post rather than directly on the film.



[You have some totally clear frames kicking around from accidentally taking photos with a lens cap on or something, right? By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work!]






share|improve this answer























  • By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work! love it!

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with. Wow what a great idea on a really professional approach for my kinda niche undertaking! Much love also for detailing good practices. As for your ideas regarding post: While I think they are great, doing anything in post kinda goes against my concept of everything coming together in the camera. I might explore this in the future though

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey good luck with your projects. I try to write responses to both the original question and for anyone asking similar questions. Doing that work with reversal films sounds like an awesome challenge, and I hope you find a workflow that gets you to where you want to go.

    – TheLuckless
    3 hours ago











  • I'll make this the accepted answer as it doesn't directly suggest any material but describes the best way to find the most suitable material I think!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • Thank's a lot yeah my work by its nature involves always changing methods and experimenting! I'll respond with updates here once I tried some of the methods!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago


















1














What you need, is Vantablack. This awesome material reflects only .04% of light - way too little to affect those silver halides. That being said, I don't think it's commercially available. Perhaps there's a similar knockoff on the market?



All daydreaming aside, instead of trying to block all light from reflecting off the object and being recorded...why not instead filter and block? For example, if you switched to orthochromatic film, then you know that red light isn't recorded by virtue of the film...so you need only use material that reflects red. Alternatively, use a filter that cuts a part of the spectrum, like a deep red filter, and then use a material that reflects green/blue. My hypothesis here is that it's easier to find a material that reflects just a color than to find one that reflects near to nothing.






share|improve this answer























  • Haha yeah Vantablack came to mind but I couldn't find any resources and even if there were any it probably would cost a fortune and a half. I love your idea with filtering and / or using orthochromatic film. This however only helps If I'd shot black and white. Which I do half of the time but I'd also wanted to use this kind of technique for color photos. And my subjects are exclusively human beings so filtering red could really distort skin tones of most lighter skin complexions.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey my digging led me to a Kickstarter that appears to have never got off the ground...shame...And 'Ah' - I didn't realize color film was a part of the equation...hmmmm....

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Thanks a lot for your efforts though. I think I'm still gonna try this or similar techniques for B/W shots.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











Your Answer








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2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









2














Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with.



Shiny synthetic fibres [and even some natural wools] might look black, but are at risk of casting bright specular reflections toward the camera which increases the apparent brightness.



You also want your masks to be as smooth and even in the scene as you can get them: Folds and wrinkles will be more likely to show in the second exposure than a smooth texture.



From there, the next step would be to adjust how you're metering: Use a spot meter off the black-masking you're putting in the image, and use zone-system like metering methods to drop it down to where you want it.



This process may also involve getting creative with supplemental lighting work to achieve the best results:



  • Cast shadows on what you want dropped to black

  • Use flash or reflectors to put more light where you need it.

The method may be further pushed by using a film with higher contrast.




However, depending on exactly what you are aiming for from an end result, a more practical option may be to mask and double expose in post rather than directly on the film.



[You have some totally clear frames kicking around from accidentally taking photos with a lens cap on or something, right? By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work!]






share|improve this answer























  • By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work! love it!

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with. Wow what a great idea on a really professional approach for my kinda niche undertaking! Much love also for detailing good practices. As for your ideas regarding post: While I think they are great, doing anything in post kinda goes against my concept of everything coming together in the camera. I might explore this in the future though

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey good luck with your projects. I try to write responses to both the original question and for anyone asking similar questions. Doing that work with reversal films sounds like an awesome challenge, and I hope you find a workflow that gets you to where you want to go.

    – TheLuckless
    3 hours ago











  • I'll make this the accepted answer as it doesn't directly suggest any material but describes the best way to find the most suitable material I think!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • Thank's a lot yeah my work by its nature involves always changing methods and experimenting! I'll respond with updates here once I tried some of the methods!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago















2














Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with.



Shiny synthetic fibres [and even some natural wools] might look black, but are at risk of casting bright specular reflections toward the camera which increases the apparent brightness.



You also want your masks to be as smooth and even in the scene as you can get them: Folds and wrinkles will be more likely to show in the second exposure than a smooth texture.



From there, the next step would be to adjust how you're metering: Use a spot meter off the black-masking you're putting in the image, and use zone-system like metering methods to drop it down to where you want it.



This process may also involve getting creative with supplemental lighting work to achieve the best results:



  • Cast shadows on what you want dropped to black

  • Use flash or reflectors to put more light where you need it.

The method may be further pushed by using a film with higher contrast.




However, depending on exactly what you are aiming for from an end result, a more practical option may be to mask and double expose in post rather than directly on the film.



[You have some totally clear frames kicking around from accidentally taking photos with a lens cap on or something, right? By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work!]






share|improve this answer























  • By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work! love it!

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with. Wow what a great idea on a really professional approach for my kinda niche undertaking! Much love also for detailing good practices. As for your ideas regarding post: While I think they are great, doing anything in post kinda goes against my concept of everything coming together in the camera. I might explore this in the future though

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey good luck with your projects. I try to write responses to both the original question and for anyone asking similar questions. Doing that work with reversal films sounds like an awesome challenge, and I hope you find a workflow that gets you to where you want to go.

    – TheLuckless
    3 hours ago











  • I'll make this the accepted answer as it doesn't directly suggest any material but describes the best way to find the most suitable material I think!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • Thank's a lot yeah my work by its nature involves always changing methods and experimenting! I'll respond with updates here once I tried some of the methods!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago













2












2








2







Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with.



Shiny synthetic fibres [and even some natural wools] might look black, but are at risk of casting bright specular reflections toward the camera which increases the apparent brightness.



You also want your masks to be as smooth and even in the scene as you can get them: Folds and wrinkles will be more likely to show in the second exposure than a smooth texture.



From there, the next step would be to adjust how you're metering: Use a spot meter off the black-masking you're putting in the image, and use zone-system like metering methods to drop it down to where you want it.



This process may also involve getting creative with supplemental lighting work to achieve the best results:



  • Cast shadows on what you want dropped to black

  • Use flash or reflectors to put more light where you need it.

The method may be further pushed by using a film with higher contrast.




However, depending on exactly what you are aiming for from an end result, a more practical option may be to mask and double expose in post rather than directly on the film.



[You have some totally clear frames kicking around from accidentally taking photos with a lens cap on or something, right? By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work!]






share|improve this answer













Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with.



Shiny synthetic fibres [and even some natural wools] might look black, but are at risk of casting bright specular reflections toward the camera which increases the apparent brightness.



You also want your masks to be as smooth and even in the scene as you can get them: Folds and wrinkles will be more likely to show in the second exposure than a smooth texture.



From there, the next step would be to adjust how you're metering: Use a spot meter off the black-masking you're putting in the image, and use zone-system like metering methods to drop it down to where you want it.



This process may also involve getting creative with supplemental lighting work to achieve the best results:



  • Cast shadows on what you want dropped to black

  • Use flash or reflectors to put more light where you need it.

The method may be further pushed by using a film with higher contrast.




However, depending on exactly what you are aiming for from an end result, a more practical option may be to mask and double expose in post rather than directly on the film.



[You have some totally clear frames kicking around from accidentally taking photos with a lens cap on or something, right? By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work!]







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 3 hours ago









TheLucklessTheLuckless

1,39526




1,39526












  • By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work! love it!

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with. Wow what a great idea on a really professional approach for my kinda niche undertaking! Much love also for detailing good practices. As for your ideas regarding post: While I think they are great, doing anything in post kinda goes against my concept of everything coming together in the camera. I might explore this in the future though

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey good luck with your projects. I try to write responses to both the original question and for anyone asking similar questions. Doing that work with reversal films sounds like an awesome challenge, and I hope you find a workflow that gets you to where you want to go.

    – TheLuckless
    3 hours ago











  • I'll make this the accepted answer as it doesn't directly suggest any material but describes the best way to find the most suitable material I think!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • Thank's a lot yeah my work by its nature involves always changing methods and experimenting! I'll respond with updates here once I tried some of the methods!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago

















  • By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work! love it!

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with. Wow what a great idea on a really professional approach for my kinda niche undertaking! Much love also for detailing good practices. As for your ideas regarding post: While I think they are great, doing anything in post kinda goes against my concept of everything coming together in the camera. I might explore this in the future though

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey good luck with your projects. I try to write responses to both the original question and for anyone asking similar questions. Doing that work with reversal films sounds like an awesome challenge, and I hope you find a workflow that gets you to where you want to go.

    – TheLuckless
    3 hours ago











  • I'll make this the accepted answer as it doesn't directly suggest any material but describes the best way to find the most suitable material I think!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • Thank's a lot yeah my work by its nature involves always changing methods and experimenting! I'll respond with updates here once I tried some of the methods!

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago
















By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work! love it!

– Hueco
3 hours ago





By going this route you haven't 'made a mistake', you've been stockpiling masking stock for post production work! love it!

– Hueco
3 hours ago













Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with. Wow what a great idea on a really professional approach for my kinda niche undertaking! Much love also for detailing good practices. As for your ideas regarding post: While I think they are great, doing anything in post kinda goes against my concept of everything coming together in the camera. I might explore this in the future though

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago





Use something with a matte finish or matte fibres. Take a magnifying glass to a fabric store along with a light and something to take reflective light metering with. Wow what a great idea on a really professional approach for my kinda niche undertaking! Much love also for detailing good practices. As for your ideas regarding post: While I think they are great, doing anything in post kinda goes against my concept of everything coming together in the camera. I might explore this in the future though

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago













@Jeffrey good luck with your projects. I try to write responses to both the original question and for anyone asking similar questions. Doing that work with reversal films sounds like an awesome challenge, and I hope you find a workflow that gets you to where you want to go.

– TheLuckless
3 hours ago





@Jeffrey good luck with your projects. I try to write responses to both the original question and for anyone asking similar questions. Doing that work with reversal films sounds like an awesome challenge, and I hope you find a workflow that gets you to where you want to go.

– TheLuckless
3 hours ago













I'll make this the accepted answer as it doesn't directly suggest any material but describes the best way to find the most suitable material I think!

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago





I'll make this the accepted answer as it doesn't directly suggest any material but describes the best way to find the most suitable material I think!

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago













Thank's a lot yeah my work by its nature involves always changing methods and experimenting! I'll respond with updates here once I tried some of the methods!

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago





Thank's a lot yeah my work by its nature involves always changing methods and experimenting! I'll respond with updates here once I tried some of the methods!

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago













1














What you need, is Vantablack. This awesome material reflects only .04% of light - way too little to affect those silver halides. That being said, I don't think it's commercially available. Perhaps there's a similar knockoff on the market?



All daydreaming aside, instead of trying to block all light from reflecting off the object and being recorded...why not instead filter and block? For example, if you switched to orthochromatic film, then you know that red light isn't recorded by virtue of the film...so you need only use material that reflects red. Alternatively, use a filter that cuts a part of the spectrum, like a deep red filter, and then use a material that reflects green/blue. My hypothesis here is that it's easier to find a material that reflects just a color than to find one that reflects near to nothing.






share|improve this answer























  • Haha yeah Vantablack came to mind but I couldn't find any resources and even if there were any it probably would cost a fortune and a half. I love your idea with filtering and / or using orthochromatic film. This however only helps If I'd shot black and white. Which I do half of the time but I'd also wanted to use this kind of technique for color photos. And my subjects are exclusively human beings so filtering red could really distort skin tones of most lighter skin complexions.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey my digging led me to a Kickstarter that appears to have never got off the ground...shame...And 'Ah' - I didn't realize color film was a part of the equation...hmmmm....

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Thanks a lot for your efforts though. I think I'm still gonna try this or similar techniques for B/W shots.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago















1














What you need, is Vantablack. This awesome material reflects only .04% of light - way too little to affect those silver halides. That being said, I don't think it's commercially available. Perhaps there's a similar knockoff on the market?



All daydreaming aside, instead of trying to block all light from reflecting off the object and being recorded...why not instead filter and block? For example, if you switched to orthochromatic film, then you know that red light isn't recorded by virtue of the film...so you need only use material that reflects red. Alternatively, use a filter that cuts a part of the spectrum, like a deep red filter, and then use a material that reflects green/blue. My hypothesis here is that it's easier to find a material that reflects just a color than to find one that reflects near to nothing.






share|improve this answer























  • Haha yeah Vantablack came to mind but I couldn't find any resources and even if there were any it probably would cost a fortune and a half. I love your idea with filtering and / or using orthochromatic film. This however only helps If I'd shot black and white. Which I do half of the time but I'd also wanted to use this kind of technique for color photos. And my subjects are exclusively human beings so filtering red could really distort skin tones of most lighter skin complexions.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey my digging led me to a Kickstarter that appears to have never got off the ground...shame...And 'Ah' - I didn't realize color film was a part of the equation...hmmmm....

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Thanks a lot for your efforts though. I think I'm still gonna try this or similar techniques for B/W shots.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago













1












1








1







What you need, is Vantablack. This awesome material reflects only .04% of light - way too little to affect those silver halides. That being said, I don't think it's commercially available. Perhaps there's a similar knockoff on the market?



All daydreaming aside, instead of trying to block all light from reflecting off the object and being recorded...why not instead filter and block? For example, if you switched to orthochromatic film, then you know that red light isn't recorded by virtue of the film...so you need only use material that reflects red. Alternatively, use a filter that cuts a part of the spectrum, like a deep red filter, and then use a material that reflects green/blue. My hypothesis here is that it's easier to find a material that reflects just a color than to find one that reflects near to nothing.






share|improve this answer













What you need, is Vantablack. This awesome material reflects only .04% of light - way too little to affect those silver halides. That being said, I don't think it's commercially available. Perhaps there's a similar knockoff on the market?



All daydreaming aside, instead of trying to block all light from reflecting off the object and being recorded...why not instead filter and block? For example, if you switched to orthochromatic film, then you know that red light isn't recorded by virtue of the film...so you need only use material that reflects red. Alternatively, use a filter that cuts a part of the spectrum, like a deep red filter, and then use a material that reflects green/blue. My hypothesis here is that it's easier to find a material that reflects just a color than to find one that reflects near to nothing.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 4 hours ago









HuecoHueco

13.2k32861




13.2k32861












  • Haha yeah Vantablack came to mind but I couldn't find any resources and even if there were any it probably would cost a fortune and a half. I love your idea with filtering and / or using orthochromatic film. This however only helps If I'd shot black and white. Which I do half of the time but I'd also wanted to use this kind of technique for color photos. And my subjects are exclusively human beings so filtering red could really distort skin tones of most lighter skin complexions.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey my digging led me to a Kickstarter that appears to have never got off the ground...shame...And 'Ah' - I didn't realize color film was a part of the equation...hmmmm....

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Thanks a lot for your efforts though. I think I'm still gonna try this or similar techniques for B/W shots.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago

















  • Haha yeah Vantablack came to mind but I couldn't find any resources and even if there were any it probably would cost a fortune and a half. I love your idea with filtering and / or using orthochromatic film. This however only helps If I'd shot black and white. Which I do half of the time but I'd also wanted to use this kind of technique for color photos. And my subjects are exclusively human beings so filtering red could really distort skin tones of most lighter skin complexions.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago











  • @Jeffrey my digging led me to a Kickstarter that appears to have never got off the ground...shame...And 'Ah' - I didn't realize color film was a part of the equation...hmmmm....

    – Hueco
    3 hours ago











  • Thanks a lot for your efforts though. I think I'm still gonna try this or similar techniques for B/W shots.

    – Jeffrey
    3 hours ago
















Haha yeah Vantablack came to mind but I couldn't find any resources and even if there were any it probably would cost a fortune and a half. I love your idea with filtering and / or using orthochromatic film. This however only helps If I'd shot black and white. Which I do half of the time but I'd also wanted to use this kind of technique for color photos. And my subjects are exclusively human beings so filtering red could really distort skin tones of most lighter skin complexions.

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago





Haha yeah Vantablack came to mind but I couldn't find any resources and even if there were any it probably would cost a fortune and a half. I love your idea with filtering and / or using orthochromatic film. This however only helps If I'd shot black and white. Which I do half of the time but I'd also wanted to use this kind of technique for color photos. And my subjects are exclusively human beings so filtering red could really distort skin tones of most lighter skin complexions.

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago













@Jeffrey my digging led me to a Kickstarter that appears to have never got off the ground...shame...And 'Ah' - I didn't realize color film was a part of the equation...hmmmm....

– Hueco
3 hours ago





@Jeffrey my digging led me to a Kickstarter that appears to have never got off the ground...shame...And 'Ah' - I didn't realize color film was a part of the equation...hmmmm....

– Hueco
3 hours ago













Thanks a lot for your efforts though. I think I'm still gonna try this or similar techniques for B/W shots.

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago





Thanks a lot for your efforts though. I think I'm still gonna try this or similar techniques for B/W shots.

– Jeffrey
3 hours ago

















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